UMI's heavy duty control arms are direct replacements of the weak, factory stamped rear lower control arms. UMI's control arms are constructed of 1-1/2” mild steel tubing with CNC machined ends and assembled with polyurethane bushings. These direct bolt-on replacements are designed to minimize wheel hop and improve cornering, while lowering track ETs and helping track consistency. Control arms come complete with polyurethane bushings, grease fittings, zinc-plated steel sleeves and finished in a gloss powder coat.
Purpose: Stronger LCAs help plant the rear tires firmly on the ground, resulting in better traction on a hard launch.

Preface: Only do one side at a time, the axle might slip or roll over if you remove both lower control arms at the same time.

Tools Required:
  • Jack
  • Jack Stands
  • Socket Wrench
  • 18mm Socket
  • 18mm Wrench
  • Torque Wrench
  • Grease Gun
  • High Quality Grease
  • Rubber Mallet (or a thick, soft rag)
  • Wheel Chucks

  1. Chuck the front wheels
  2. Jack the rear end of the car up and place jack stands under the frame
  3. Check front wheels and adjust chucks as needed
  4. Either remove the jack from under the car, or lower it just enough that it is not touching the axle. Leaving the jack will help keep the axle from rolling when the LCA is removed
  5. Optionally, you can remove the rear wheels
  6. Decide which side (driver or passenger) first
  7. Remove the nuts from the LCA ends, set aside (unless replacing with new hardware)
  8. Remove the bolts from the LCA ends, be careful of the LCA falling and smashing your hands. This may require some pounding on the bolt end, in order to get it started, set aside (unless replacing with new hardware)
  9. Remove LCA, if it did not fall out
  10. Using the small tube of grease supplied with the new LCAs, put grease on both sides of the bushing at each end of the LCA. This will help get the new LCA in place, since the new bushing will make for a very tight fit.
  11. Slide the LCA into place in the front bracket first, make sure the grease fittings are pointing down
  12. I was able to get this one in place by hand, but if you cannot get it fully into place: either use the rubber mallet to softly bang the LCA fully into place (do not hit the grease fitting), or place the soft rag (folded a few times, to protect the grease fitting) onto the top of your jack, and use the jack to push the LCA into place.
  13. Put the bolt into place in the front and thread the nut onto the bolt, hand tight only
  14. Slide the LCA into the rear bracket as much as you can by hand
  15. See Step 12
  16. Put the bolt into place in the rear and thread the nut onto the bolt, hand tight only
  17. Repeat steps 7-16 on the other side of the car
  18. Raise the car back up, using your jack, and remove jack stands
  19. Either lower the car to the ground (Re-install your wheels, if you removed them), or place your jack stands under the rear axle, the suspension needs to be fully loaded before tightening the bolts on the LCAs
  20. Tighten the LCA bolts and torque them to 75 ft/lbs (if you hear rattling noises from the LCAs while driving, re-torque to 100 ft/lbs)
  21. Grease the bushings using your grease gun and the grease fittings. One click of grease should be enough
  22. Re-install your wheels, if needed
  23. Lower the car to the ground, if you did not already

  • Check the nuts and bolts frequently, if you notice they tend to come loose, you can use Loctite to help solve this issue.
  • I replaced my bolts and nuts with new hardware, as mine were all rusted. I would suggest buying them from UMI vs trying to find the right size at your local store. If you would rather get them at the hardware store, this is what I used: (4 of each) M12 x 100 bolts, M12 Lock Nuts and M12 flat washers